Planting Potatoes

Planting Schedule for 2012

Now that you have purchased your "Seed Potatoes" it is time to prepare them. I always Pre-Sprout my seed potatoes, and the ones I bought from Portland Nursery are young, so it is important to do this. When you chit or Pre-Sprout the seed potato you get a plant that is stronger and mature faster, and give you a heavier yield crop.

Here is a Time Schedule you can follow if you like. If not make your own using the steps below.
 March 6th -  Place seed potatoes  in a brown paper bag in a cool dark place (50 to 55 degrees).
 March 16th - I will start Step 1 Below
 March 29th -  I start Step 2 Below
 March 30th or 31st - Step 3 Below

Soil Preparation: Light, loose and a well-drained soil is ideal. Fortunately, the potato is very adaptable and will produce well enough for the home gardener, even where soil is less than perfect.  Potatoes like well tilled soil. I don't keep up with PH, but if you do, potatoes do best in slightly acid soil from 5.5-6.5. Read my TIPS Blog on how to achieve healthy soil :)


Step 1:
The first thing you do when you get home with your seed potatoes is to spread them out on a flat with the "seed end" up (That is the area that has the most eyes, that is where the sprouts emerge). Place the flat in a warm area around 70 degrees with medium light intensity. The warmth will stimulate the development of strong sprouts from the eyes. This process should take about 10 days.
Step 2:
Now you are ready to prepare the seed potato. CAUTION: Be careful not to break off the sprouts.
Cut the seed potato into 1 1/2 inch thick slices, with 2-4 eyes per piece. Place the pieces in a well-ventilated (cool) area for 1 to 2 days. This will dry and heal the cut area. If temperature is too warm they will dry out.
Step 3:
Before planting dust potatoes with a dusting of organic sulfur. You can find this in any nursery. I use a paper bag to dust them in, be careful not to break off the eyes.
Planting can vary. I like to plant in rows, because the kids enjoy digging them up and it gives them room to dig. Plant 6 to 8 inches deep and seed pieces 10 to 14 inches apart. I plant in rows and stagger the plants. Plant in full sun for best yield.

Good companions: Bush bean, cabbage family, corn, marigold, pea. I like to plant with compatible crops. This helps with pest control.
Bad companions: Cucumber, pumpkin, squash family and tomato.

Sprouts will emerge in about 10 to 14 days, depending on soil temperature. When stems are about 8 inches high, gently hill the vines up with soil scraped from both sides of the row with a hoe. Leave half the vine exposed. This process is called Hilling and it is crucial. You will hill again 2 to 3 weeks adding 1 to 2 inches of soil. If the potatoes push through and get exposed to light they will turn green.

Fertilizing: When plants emerge and until blooming ends, spray every two weeks with fish emulsion . Foliar sprays are the best way to apply fertilizer, and the result is a higher yield. Apply every two weeks until blooming ends. Spray in the morning while it's still cool and the dew lingers on the leaves. This way all the fertilizer is absorbed.

Watering: Moderate, especially when appearance of blossoms. Potatoes that are not over watered  taste better and less watery. Make sure you weed properly so your potatoes don't compete for water.

Harvest: Harvest the main crop when the foliage dies back. I cut foliage a week before I harvest the crop and I let the soil dry before harvest. Gently loosen the soil using a garden fork and feel around with your hand to find tubers. Place potatoes on a flat surface to dry, before brushing off dry soil. Do NOT wash them. Cure about 2 weeks at 55 degrees in humid conditions, and then store at about 40 degrees in a root cellar. DO NOT store with  apples, they give off a gas that initiates potato sprouting!

ENJOY!
Ruby